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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

We've hit this problem.

56 Plate 2.2 155hp TDCI ST, 130k

The car will warm up when you give it some load, but under normal driving the temperature drops to nearly cold.

Before anyone says diesels are thermally efficient, This is normal for the time of year, and all the other bolony.... I've had/driven approx 20 or so different diesels, some from Ford, as well as others, and not ONE of them ran cold in any weather, other than when a faulty thermostat was in place.

Car's operating temperature is there for efficiency. The diesel won't burn properly if the engine ISN'T at temperature, causing premature wear, and caking of the engine/injectors/pistons and everything else. The pre-heaters are just that... a pre heater for extremely cold environments to warm the fuel and keep it flowing, as well as warming the engine to keep it at operating temperature.

Secondly, we've had the Car nearly 4 years and 70k, and this is the first time it's happened.

We've replaced both the Coolant and the Oil thermostats, and the issue is MARGINALLY better, in that it takes a little longer to cool off, and not quite so long to warm up, But still doesn't hold temperature.

A couple of months ago, we had to have a new turbo fitted, and this is when she seemed to notice it. (it's my Mrs Car, so I can't give exact timescales of temperature etc) but didn't say anything until I'd commented next time I was in the car. I monitored the temperature over the period of a holiday, while I drove, and everything said thermostat. So that was replaced.

It didn't resolve the issue, however I'd read about the second thermostat for the oil. So that was replaced (no need for manifold/pipe disconnecting and removing, just 1 hand and a flexi adapter for the ratchet).

Anyway, I took it for a quick spin, down up a hill, bit of load, and back the other way. As I approached our outskirts it looked fine. I thought YES!!! However no, as I drove the next 1mile up a slight hill in a 30 the needle dropped, slowly but dropped. Next few drives have been the same.

What else can be causing this? As I say, it seemed to occur straight after having a new turbo fitted.

No the thermostats are not Frauds, but having said that, the car - regardless of cheap or expensive thermostat - should run somewhere NEAR the operating temp. But it doesn't. Also, if cheap thermostats are the issue, then even under load the car wouldn't heat up, as the flow through the radiator would keep it cooler.

Any other ideas?
 

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I'm one step behind you mate as I've got the oil thermostat to change to hopefully cure mine. If not, it's a coolant thermostat and coolant flush.

Failing that, are you losing coolant?

Could be a faulty water pump maybe?

Out of interest, is is easy enough to swap the oil thermosat without removing the manifold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not loosing coolant, and not overheating, it's overcooling, which is down to something not being right in the coolant loop.

There's 3 loops in cooling (4 if you have the mondeo's oil cooler setup)

1. Is internal engine flow... This helps the engine warm up in all parts simultaneously, as well as allowing the pump to operate properly without burnout.

2. Is the cabin heating circulation, this has no major effect on cooling, maybe a little drop if you turn on full, but the cooler coolant will then close the thermostat and allow heat to be replenished.

3. Is the radiator loop, which is controlled through the thermostat. And therefore the engine shouldn't cool too much.

4. In the case of our mondeys is the Oil Cooler loop, which again is thermostat controlled and as with the radiator loop, will only open as the engine warms up, and part of that warming is the oil.

Oil thermostat swap I did with an 8mm socket, a long flexi ratchet (as per this link I got mine off fleabay)... and one scratched set of knuckles. I put my hand with the socket through to feel the bolt and held the socket in place, then pushed the flexi ratchet in place....

This linky http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Oil_Cooler_Stat_-_Changing_(TDCi)

I didn't have pic 2's hoses and plate

so from pic 3, (http://www.fordwiki.co.uk/images/2/2f/Oilstat3.jpg) I put my hand through to the cooler with the socket and placed on the bolt,

then fed the flexi ratchet through the thinner pipes to the right of the egr (shown silvery above the oil dipper here) http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/uploads/monthly_03_2013/post-38050-0-22463400-1362954606.jpg

You'll loose about 1liter of coolant, so have spare, or prepare to flush the whole thing.

Undo the Nut, and place aside,

Pull the stat out and let coolant flow, Long or wide pliers (used mole grips set wide) to undo the clip and remove stat from pipe.

Put new stat in (notice the pipe is keyed with a notch for the stat),

replace stat,

replace nut,

fill coolant.

Start car.

Grin that you at least got that bit right :p
 

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I would also like an answer for this problem as my mondeo is doing exactly the same,I have changed the water thermostat but it didn't make any difference
 

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I changed my oil thermostat on Saturday and topped the coolant up as per the way the Haynes manual says.

Went for a drive and the temperature gauge now gets back up to 90º!

Been out in the car a few times over the weekend and it's working every time. Need to check the coolant again later but touch wood, the problem is cured.
 

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I changed my oil thermostat on Saturday and topped the coolant up as per the way the Haynes manual says.

Went for a drive and the temperature gauge now gets back up to 90º!

Been out in the car a few times over the weekend and it's working every time. Need to check the coolant again later but touch wood, the problem is cured.
Hi mate , got a link to the part you fitted as mine has just started doing the same , and my heated seat keeps burning my bum too

Cold hands warm arse!!
 

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Hi mate , got a link to the part you fitted as mine has just started doing the same , and my heated seat keeps burning my bum too

Cold hands warm arse!!
Yeah of course.

Search for item no. 182004706586 on ebay.

Can't send a link on my phone sorry.
 

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Thanks mate. Ordered

Just put my spare wheels in for powder coating and so far this week , heated seat packed up, heater gone cold and park sensors paying up . Wonder what's next!!????*%##<?
 

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Thanks mate. Ordered

Just put my spare wheels in for powder coating and so far this week , heated seat packed up, heater gone cold and park sensors paying up . Wonder what's next!!????*%##<?
When you come to swap it, I disconnected the EGR which allowed the metal pipe running parallel to the radiator to be removed from EGR and pushed down, which allows you a bit more room to get a ratchet in.

Undo the bolt (8mm) and be careful not to drop it. Then pull the sensor out. You'll lose a fair bit of coolant, so have some replacement coolant ready. Halfords do five litres for £20 ready mixed.

Replace the sensor with the new one, and refit.

Top the coolant up to maximum, start the car and hold the revs at 1500rpm for 20 seconds. Turn the engine off.

Top the coolant up to 15mm above maximum, replace the reservoir cap and go for a drive round making sure it reaches temperature.

Touch wood it all works.

Check your coolant again once the car has cooled down and top up if needed.
 

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I've just done both stats on mine plus the water pump. The gauge now sits bang in the middle under all circumstances. Using the diagnostic mode in the dash and the temp sits at about 83 on a run dropping to 80 when sat idling. It'll go up to 90/under load or high speed. Still seems low but I guess that's normal for these things.
 
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