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3+Pulls to open door (Fixed with guide)

46K views 60 replies 31 participants last post by  ggray50 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi guys finaly just went for it used about 3 stickys which were not complete, or very well detailed. so i put most of the info together and used mainly common sense, so hopefully this will get all of you to fix yours, as it takes 10minuted, really easy and hopefully its a great guide. wish i did this 7 months ago.
direct link http://img816.imageshack.us/g/swindon027.jpg/

here are the only tools needed, cross head screw driver, and t20head, AND sharp knife.
http://img143.imageshack.us/i/swindon043.jpg/

step 1. make sure you can open the door needing repair FULLY. Now remove this plug on the side of your door.
http://img443.imageshack.us/i/swindon042.jpg/

step 2 (front windows only) . remove the lil cut out on your window pannel (where you would adjust on leccy windows) use a sharp pointed knife be careful not to break as its really flimsy clip,

step 3 (front windows only). unscrew the bolt from behind the clip. using a screw driver.

step 4. (front windows only) pull the plastic window cover off heres a pic of the clip holding it in so it takes a good tug.
http://img203.imageshack.us/i/swindon039.jpg/

step 5. pop off the cover inside the handle, use a sharp pointed knife try not to scrape and damage cover.
http://img51.imageshack.us/i/swindon038.jpg/

step 6. unscrew 2 screw with screwdriver.
http://img820.imageshack.us/i/swindon037.jpg/

step 7.remove torque screw from within handle area shown, (t20 used)
http://img375.imageshack.us/i/swindon034.jpg/

step 8. pull on the silver parts half way and just wriggle the black plastic cover out.
http://img805.imageshack.us/i/swindon032.jpg/

step 9. remove 6 door card screw 2 on the inside, 2 outside, 2 under door car, pic shown of inside.
http://img824.imageshack.us/i/swindon035.jpg/

step 10. lift up the door card up, it will be attatched to a small wire plug where the leccy switch would be just unclip this.

step 11. pull back enough of the film cover, only pull what you need trying not to damage this as its import to stop water getting in,
http://img22.imageshack.us/i/swindon028.jpg/
DOOR CARD OFF. easy should have taken 5minutes.

step 12. pull on EXTERIOR handle to full extent (as you were to open it) whilst holding it open unscrew the t20 on side of door shown, only about 3 turns and you should find the door hand is now held open,
http://img535.imageshack.us/i/swindon029.jpg/

step 13, the small 2inch part next to the handle will now pop out whilst you just pull it towards yourself.
http://img408.imageshack.us/i/swindon030.jpg/

step 14. kind of push the handle back in whilst sliding the whole thing to the right, with a wiggle it pops out, then again pull the handle as the the far left part need to unclip.
(sounds complicated but i used common sense had no guide on this part, really simple when your actually doing it, i aint no mechanic or diy pro)

step 15. handle now off. you can use various things, rubber bung or foam, i had neither so i used paper and sticky take. you need to put about 3-5mm ish, off padding on the inside of the plastic bung, you cannot just take around it, basically only front and back, if you do the edges it stopps it going back into the handle slot.
http://img594.imageshack.us/i/swindon031.jpg/
http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/7418/swindon0310.jpg

step 16. DONE. just put everything back on backwards, i found it easier to be looking inside the door card while wriggling the hand on the outside, as theres a silver latch that needs to be in place.

(putting handle back on lil info if needed)
guide the handle back in place, it should be still held open as if you were pulling it, now about 3 turns on the t20 screw, you should probably hear a twang or feel it all tighten into place. have a lil pull on the handle make sure it looks like its pulling the rod inside the doorcard. close the door, and give it a pull, if the handle still needs 2+pulls you need the padding thicker.

hope this helps please reply with results. and again i am no diy man or mechanic. i basically used abit of common sense doing it all, so with this guide anyone should be able to do it? enjoy
 
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#3 · (Edited by Moderator)
heres a pic. the orange bit is the part you cannot make thick. pink bit is the back you do not need to pad. red is the padding part.

basically i tried making loads of lil cut outs of black tape and building it up, but took ages, so i got some paper about 4mm by 30oddmm, and folded it over so all in all it wants to be about, 4mmwide 6mmlong and about 5mm thick (very rough guide) what i did was then got a thin bit of black tape and went round it all ONCE, and it just fit, any more and you will not be able to get the handle back into the door.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/7418/swindon0310.jpg
 
#6 ·
yea a rubber washer would work. i think mine is the extreme oposite of whats best. ie glueing rubber made to fit. but it just goes to show how simple it is to fix if a bit of paper and celetape can fix it in a minute.. any also how poorerly designed these doors are
 
#8 ·
If you just want to stick bits on the handle, then there is no need to remove the door card - the handle can be removed with it in-situ.

The correct way to repair this problem is to replace the retainer clip between the handle mechanism and the locking rod - it can't really be reused. It's the white clip at the top of the locking rod. Part number is 1074569 - about £2 or so. With the door card off you can see the handle pushes the rod down to unlatch the door. When you replace the clip, simply set the rod lower in the clip when you snap it closed and the door will open earlier in the handle travel. Around level with the top of the clip is low enough to open the door in the middle of it's travel,
 
#9 ·
A picture tells a thousand words............................any chance you took one before closing it all up??????
 
#13 ·
Does anybody know what size screw it is that holds the handle in place, my wife opened the door today and the handle came off. I've fitted it all back together when I looked in the end of the door theres no screw there to tighten Its the one in step 12 above

tia Jack
 
#15 ·
Would anyone know why my drivers handle, now just stays like step 13 ? So i am now unable to open my door from the outside ? Any help gratefully received, as I am fed up with climbing through the passenger door side to open the door !! grrrrr
Why bother? Simply double click the unlock and hold down on the 2nd click - global windows will open all your windows so now just reach inside and open the door!
Simples
 
#17 ·
This came in very handy, thanks.

I did both front doors today. The drivers door was occasionally awkward and the passenger side more so.
It took a little over an hour to do both doors from start to finish, and that included cleaning the paintwork around the door handle holes whilst they were off, and cleaning the door cards when I'd put them back on.
Very easy fix, I used sticky backed felt pads to build the handle up and it's worked a treat.
If you have this problem then give it a go, very easy, no nasty surprises! :)
 
#19 ·
Hi STnewboy, I did try this and tightened the screw right up, but The handle didn't move ? I had exactly the same symptoms as explained above, until I t got to this stage that the handle now stays poking out and I am unable to open the door from the outside. Inside works fine. ??? does anyone have any pics of what it should look like inside the door panel ?
 
#20 ·
Danny, Did you manage to get this fixed? It sounds like the opening latch has slipped over the handle pull.

To fix it you'll have to take the door card off, peel away some of the liner and just lever the latch back into the correct position in front of the pull mech. It's quite easy to do.
 
#21 ·
thanks to op for this although removing the door card isn't necessary as already mentioned. good guide though
 
#22 ·
When the handle Torx screw is in the release position the "latch" (dunno what else to call it) can jump over the handle release. If that happens there's no way to open the door from the outside unless you fix it.

If the latch slips over the pull mechanism inside the door (and the handle just pulls out and sticks out with no spring force against it) the only way to reset it - that I know of - is to remove the door card and membrane, and pull the spring loaded latch back into place. It's not too difficult to do.

Just out of interest. Getting the door card off is a (max) 10 minute job. Getting the membrane behind it off - undamaged - is a different matter entirely, needs a very sharp scalpel and is a very sticky job because of the mastic (tar like stuff that holds it in place), but it does come off.

For an explanation with pics, search for the sticky showing how to replace window panes / electric wind up mechanisms (electric regulator).

It happened to me.
 
#23 ·
#24 ·
Bump to an old thread, but i had an issue on passenger side door, handle wouldnt open the door at all, fixed that, the latch was over the opener thing.

Now the door wont unlock, the central locking doesnt seem to unlock it, but it can be unlocked from inside?

(Central locking DOES lock the door)
 
#25 ·
A word of warning: later front door panels do not appear to be held on the same way, well, at least that is the case for my 2006 car. The 6 screws around the periphery are still used as is the torx screw for the door opener handle surround. There's a trim piece within the door pull that has to be prised off (inwards) , revealing 2 screws. If you remove them the door panel can be lifted off the door.

The electric window surround/ handle is heat staked to the door casing. It does not have to be removed prior to removing the door panel. Indeed , if you try to prise it off, believing there is a spring clip underneath, you WILL break the heat staking and possibly distort the panel in the process !
 
#26 · (Edited by Moderator)
A word of warning: later front door panels do not appear to be held on the same way, well, at least that is the case for my 2006 car. The 6 screws around the periphery are still used as is the torx screw for the door opener handle surround. There's a trim piece within the door pull that has to be prised off (inwards) , revealing 2 screws. If you remove them the door panel can be lifted off the door.

The electric window surround/ handle is heat staked to the door casing. It does not have to be removed prior to removing the door panel. Indeed , if you try to prise it off, believing there is a spring clip underneath, you WILL break the heat staking and possibly distort the panel in the process !
Unless of course, step 2 in the original post "step 2 (front windows only) . remove the lil cut out on your window pannel (where you would adjust on leccy windows) use a sharp pointed knife be careful not to break as its really flimsy clip, " refers to removing the trim/ cover holding the electric mirror adjuster, not the electric windows adjustment switch surround !
 
#27 ·
You only have to remove the inner panels and the membrane if the latch inside the door slips from the open position to the closed.

My driver's door handle died (again, but after 2 years) on Friday and reverted to the 5 pulls to open the door.

I pressed the unlock fob on the key till all windows opened then opened the door from the inside (through the open window). I pulled the handle out and locked the mechanism in position with the Torx screw, slid the lock cover back and out and gently removed the door handle. The glue holding the pad in place had dried up and become non glue.

Got new glue and glued the piece of plastic back in place. Clamped it for 30 minutes.

Once the glue appeared dry, I slid the door handle back in place, slid the lock cover back in place, released the Torx screw (releasing the latch onto the handle) and tested - fixed.

Actual work time (including gluing (but not glue drying)) 2 minutes.
Glue drying time 30 minutes.
Difficulty > .1%
Total time to fix a really, REALLY annoying and embarrassing problem - 32 minutes start to finish (including waiting for glue to dry).

:banana:

I'm not sure if Mondysttdci's original post pics still exist but if anybody want's new pics I can easily make some at the weekend.

It's a complete pain in the Wotsit when it happens but incredibly easy to fix. :L
 
#30 ·
This has happened to me and my 2006 st220, is the correct way to glue a piece of pad to the handle or is there in fact a spare part that can be bought from Ford to replace the entire thing?
Someone posted the clip part number being 1074569; this attaches the handle to the rod.

I bought one, it worked perfectly. I removed the old clip with a dremel type cutting wheel; there was enough room to get the dremel into the door cavity to do that.
 
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